Quality of Pearls

Size

Larger pearls are more valuable than smaller pearls when all other factors are the same.

small pearls


Shape

Round pearls are typically the most valuable shape, but well-formed pear, oval, teardrop, or baroque (misshapen) shapes are valued as well.

Not round pearls round pearls


Color

Pearls come in a broad spectrum of colors. The main color of a pearl is called its body color, and transparent hues that lie on top of the body color are called overtones. The iridescent shimmering on the pearl’s surface is called the orient. Pearls can be white, pink, cream, blue, purple, green, black, silver, and gold but many pearls reflect different colors. Generally, Akoya pearls are white, freshwater pearls are white or cream colored, South Sea pearls are white or gold, and Tahitian pearls are black.

black pearls white pearls pink pearl gold pearl


Luster

Luster is probably the most important factor to consider in judging the value of a pearl. A higher luster is more desirable. Pearls with excellent luster have bright and sharp reflections, pearls with good luster have bright reflections with hazy edges, pearls with fair luster have blurry reflections, and pearls with poor luster have dim reflections. Akoya pearls are well known for their sharp luster.

pearl luster spectrum


Surface Quality

Surface quality refers to the number of scratches or abnormalities on the pearl’s surface. Pearls with smoother surfaces are more valuable and more durable.

Surface Quality


Nacre

A dull pearl indicates thin nacre. Thin nacre causes a pearl to have a weak luster and be less durable.

                                                     nacre thickness


Matching

When multiple pearls are strung together to make a piece of jewelry, the pearls should be similar to each other in terms of color, size, and shape. However, jewelers will sometimes mix pearls of different colors, sizes, and shapes to add variety and creativity.

                        mismatched pearls matched pearls

References

"Pearl Quality Factors." Pearl Quality Factors. Gemological Institute of America Inc., n.d. Web. 1 Dec. 2015.

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